Vanilla & Masala

I can’t believe it took me almost a year after moving to St. Louis to finally visit the Saturday Soulard Market. Looking back, I’m a little annoyed with myself for waiting so long. Since the arrival of spring—just as the city started waking up with blooms and sunshine—I’ve made it a point to go every other Saturday. It’s my way of making up for lost time.

Soulard Market is a true gem. Established in 1779, it is the oldest public market west of the Mississippi. It owes its name to Julia Soulard, a businesswoman who donated part of her land to create a space for the community.

Growing up, I didn’t appreciate the charm of trips to the market. To me, it was just another tedious errand. I would tag along with my mother, half-heartedly, though I always found myself quietly drawn to the vivid displays of fruits and vegetables—especially during winter, when the seasonal produce felt particularly magical. Before I learned to cook, my involvement in the kitchen was limited to occasionally organizing the crisper drawer in the fridge after a market trip. It wasn’t until I moved to the U.S. for my PhD that I truly began to enjoy shopping for fresh produce. Iowa winters are long and unforgiving, so when the Ames farmers market reopened in May, it felt like a celebration of life after hibernation. Each visit brought something new to taste or try, turning grocery shopping into an adventure.

Now in St. Louis, the weather is gentler—winters are mild compared to Iowa’s—and I love starting my Saturday mornings early, cloth bag in hand, ready to wander the market stalls. The market is set in an H-shaped building with European-style architecture on the outside. As you approach, the soft murmur of activity rises, often accompanied by live, soulful music drifting through the air.

The market is a visual feast for the eyes, bursting with vibrant colors—whether it’s the fresh produce, the cut flowers, or the handmade baskets, jewelry, and décor. So far, I’ve picked up lychees, hazelnuts, okra, bitter gourd, habanero peppers, and mustard greens—all incredibly fresh. I have often resisted the temptation to buy yucca, sugarcane, cacao pods, and so many other exotic items from around the world.

On Saturdays, the market opens at 8:00 a.m., and it’s best to arrive early if you are after the freshest produce. By noon, most of the good stuff is gone, and by 1:00 p.m. , the produce stalls are nearly empty but carry great deals on the remaining produce. But that’s hardly the end of the experience.

During lunchtime, the options to explore are still endless: tacos, crepes, kettle corn, and even Indian street food. On one visit, I had one of the best desserts I’ve tasted in a while—crispy, lightly sweet Bánh Cam or Vietnamese sesame balls. It’s also a lot of fun, just people watching – some of them tipsy because of the Bloody Marys from Julia’s Cafe – making their way through the crowd.

Each time I visit, I feel like I am still to explore a lot – given the variety of things to buy and also the availability of seasonal produce that varies from month to month. It’s a vibrant, delicious way to spend a Saturday, and I’m so glad I finally found my way there.